Friday 12 September 2008

Auld Ayr toon

'...Auld Ayr Toon, wham none surpasses.
for honest men and sonsie lassies.'

Thus spake the bard, Burns not Shakespeare, regarding the town of Ayr about 200 years ago in his epic poem 'Tam O Shanter'. At the time that Burns was writing Ayr was the administrative centre of the county of Ayrshire, a port and market town. Later, in the 19th and for most of the 20th century it was Scotlands premier seaside resort where every summer thousands came down by train, and 'doon the watter' on paddle steamers like the famous 'Waverley' to spend the Glasgow and Paisley fair holidays enjoying the pleasures of Ayr beach, sampling the delights of Mancinis ice cream, dancing at the Pavilion or attending the summer variety shows at the Gaiety theatre. With the advent of package holidays Glaswiegans, like everyone else are more likely to spend there holidays in Alicante then Ayr and in the 70s and 80s Ayr, as a seaside resort underwent a sad decline. Recently it has undergone a considerable transformation with the construction of a massive new shopping complex in Kyle street and a major expansion of the holiday industry with incresed tourism from the North of Ireland.

Sadly, however , modernisation has meant the destruction of much of what gave the resort its distinctly scottish character. many of the small gift shops and bars have been swept away to be replaced by hair salons and coffee shops. It is ironic that at a time when nuch is being made of the activities of the Scottish National Party government in Holyrood, much of what made scottish towns and cities distinctive is being swept away by exactly the same multinational business conglomerates that are transforming the equivalents of Ayr, here in England. It would seem that whatever the political complexion of governments worldwide we are headed for a future where all towns and cities will be almost identical in appearence.

That being said Ayr is still worth a visit. It had close associations with William Wallace and of course there is the Burns connection. The Clyde coast is within easy reach and there are good transport links with Glasgow, and in the other direction, Stranrear and the ferries to the north of ireland. The golf course at Prestwick, Troon and Turnberry are nearby and it is within easy driving distance of the Galloway national park, part of Scotland that is, in its own way as spectacular as anything found in the better known Highlands. Finally, of course from Ayr you can easily reach the Islands of the firth of Clyde, notably Arran, known as Scotland in miniature Cumbrae and Bute. And it should be said, that as in Burns time, the natives of Ayr remain na friendly and outgoing bunch.

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